September 23, 2015
By: Paula Forbes, Epicurious
What I'm reading these days: cookbooks from Ruth Reichl, Dale Talde, and John Besh, and a book on chilis of the world.
Early fall is the perfect time for Cajun food. Golden light on changing leaves, football on the TV, and a big pot of gumbo, with its toasty roux-based broth, bubbling on the stove. Perfection.
Problem is, a lot of recent Cajun and Creole cookbooks focus on chefs and restaurants. Don't get me wrong: I love seeing what a talented chef can do with these earthy flavors and traditional techniques. But sometimes you kind of want to cut the fuss and just make some simple gumbo.
Well, on his fourth cookbook—and yes, the last three were very cheffy indeed—New Orleans' John Besh has cut the fuss. He writes in his introduction, "Besh Big Easy is a deliberate paperback. I don't want it sitting on your coffee table, I want it well-used in your kitchen."